Expeditions
2010-2011 Discover Our Earth
Russia / Ukraine20/07/2011  We bid farewell to Kazakhstan and head for the border! It’s a weekend and a small queue holds us up for a while but soon things get moving and we exit Kazakhstan with little trouble and enter Mother Russia. All our paper work gets checked by the border guards and we enter Russia with little hassle. (Apart from one who never got a Russian visa!!! mention no names)   China01/07/2011  South East China is currently experiencing heavy rain fall so we all make sure we are ready for any downpours. It doesn’t take long before the heavens open and the humid 34c drops to a nice 28c. We reach the Chinese border control and find an ultra Modern border crossing the likes we rarely see! We all seek cover in the arrivals building and find the Chinese border guards can not only speak English but they also have a top spec passport reader that scans your passport and prints your entry ticket into China and registers you on the authorities computers. There is a very small amount of motorbikes allowed into China each year and we feel privileged to be in this very elite club. |
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Touch down in Sydney. Our bikes arrived before us and thanks to the hard work of our agents (handling Customs clearance all over the week-end no less), the bikes are collected within hours of our own arrival. Pulling off the bubble wrap and wheeling them from their pallets, everyone is grinning and happy. Procycles BMW on Princes Way (thanks guys!) deal with the service work, whilst we all soak up the Sydney sights.
The hotel is within spitting distance of the harbour. In fact the Harbour Bridge greets us every morning as we step out and for those wanting a longer view, a beer at the roof top pool boasts fantastic views. Enough! We are supposed to be adventure riders – still you can’t blame us for some R&R when we have 12000kms ahead of us in the next 4 weeks. We are joined by four new riders on this section, two of them are going onto Section 5 – the Bangkok run back through China and Russia to Europe. The other two are here for Australia. A quick dip into the Discover our Earth atmosphere.
Our next two days crossed the mountains, first north to the small town Albury and then back south to the coast and onto Melbourne. This has to be some of Australia’s finest riding roads. Perfect twisties and swooping bends through the Snowy Mountains, into the Kosciuszko National Park (Kosciuszko is Australia’s highest peak at a mere 2268m), and along the Great Alpine Way. The time of year makes it even better. Its early Autumn here and the trees are all turning a warm red golden hue. We pass through many small historic villages and past old homesteads and get a glimpse of a charmed and rural existence, as the leaves dance behind us.
But not too fast! The riders are accumulating speeding tickets at a fast rate – thanks to the lower limits here and extremely vigilant and intolerant police. Not that the police are rude, in fact they are particularly pleasant in explaining the rules, wishing you a great journey, hoping that they are not going to spoil it too much with a AUD$400 ticket and remember to take it easy . . . . . some even make the mistake of passing a police car when overtaking a solid line – mentioning no names! That’s another ticket then.
Everyone has mellowed into Australia’s relaxed and easy going nature (police excepted!). We arrive in the Barossa Valley for a well earned rest at the time of the Barossa Vintage Festival. All the small villages and wineries celebrate their pioneering days and heritage, with a mass of activities from grape crushing competitions to scarecrow making, locally produce and plenty of wine flow, along with music and a party spirit. Our day off is on Tanunda Pioneer Town Day and all the locals are dressed from the 1850’s, vintage cars and bikes are about and the whole day is just great fun.
We’ve now started the long haul north. From the Barossa Valley, the team have explored the Flinders Ranges and their first sample of dirt roads. The race is on to spot kangaroos. The count of dead spray painted, ballooning kangaroos roadside is big, but the real thing? It’s like trying to spot bears in Alaska so far! The glimpse of a few hind legs is all we’ve got. Not that we want to be too up close to the things when moving rapidly on a bike. Nooooo! Anyway, we’re opal mining tomorrow in Coober Pedy and then it’s the 500 mile desert day to Uluru (Ayers Rock).
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Ironically, just as in Buenos Aires, we leave Sydney in torrential rain. The down pour really kicks in only 15 minutes before we head out. Its buckets of the stuff, so within the first hour we are soaked to the skin (at least those who dared not to get out the waterproofs). By the time we got to the Royal National Park and our first view over the ocean, the rain had stopped and the clouds were already breaking. The rain had given that special damp green leafy scent that only pristine forests emit under a deluge and that riding a bike, you are lucky enough to acutely smell. We trace a coastal route south to the small town of Narooma, set back on an inlet with palm trees and a deep blue lagoon.
Our next two days crossed the mountains, first north to the small town Albury and then back south to the coast and onto Melbourne. This has to be some of Australia’s finest riding roads. Perfect twisties and swooping bends through the Snowy Mountains, into the Kosciuszko National Park (Kosciuszko is Australia’s highest peak at a mere 2268m), and along the Great Alpine Way. The time of year makes it even better. Its early Autumn here and the trees are all turning a warm red golden hue. We pass through many small historic villages and past old homesteads and get a glimpse of a charmed and rural existence, as the leaves dance behind us. But not too fast! The riders are accumulating speeding tickets at a fast rate – thanks to the lower limits here and extremely vigilant and intolerant police. Not that the police are rude, in fact they are particularly pleasant in explaining the rules, wishing you a great journey, hoping that they are not going to spoil it too much with a AUD$400 ticket and remember to take it easy . . . . . some even make the mistake of passing a police car when overtaking a solid line – mentioning no names! That’s another ticket then.
What on earth is the time?
09/04/2011
The roads here really are a joy although the challenge is whether just to ride them or to take it a notch or two down and relish the views. Most people do something in between and strike a happy balance. The ride runs us past the entrance to Copper Canyon and a few hardy souls venture a few miles down to see the Canyon itself. However this road, while initially welcoming, fast becomes a rocky narrow track with 300+ metre drops and no barriers. It takes most of a day to get to the end of the road and another to get out. Unfortunately we don't have the time in our schedule as Los Angeles is beckoning.
After an overnight in Creel our last full day in Mexico is a ride towards the border and a last night before we cross to the USA, or as four of our group call it “home”.
The exit from Mexico and the entry into the USA are important to get right and both are bureaucratic in their own way. We will ride as a group and cross as a group. This is partly to ensure that all the paperwork is correctly completed (particularly important as we are flying the bikes out of the US in just a few days) and also because this is border / bandit country in Mexico. Unfortunately one of our group stops off for photos and then rides straight past the rest of the group stopped for fuel, despite Kevin waving frantically from the hard shoulder and beeping his horn! We arrive at the border and there is no sign of the missing rider. We try to call him to no avail. After a couple of hours completing our exit from Mexico we are ready to start the process to enter the US and still no sign, so we call our Hotel in Tombstone. “Oh yes he checked in about 30 minutes ago” says the very helpful Kristy However when we speak to him he has missed the Mexican customs completely and entered the US without exiting Mexico. A big problem as the Mexicans take your credit card details as a guarantee and so if he doesn't exit his bike then they will charge him! He rides the hour back to the border and arrives just as the last of the group are ready to leave the US side. He then has to exit the US, and go to the Mexican customs office and tell them he wants to exit Mexico. When all the paperwork is complete he then turns round and goes back to enter the US again. The US guards eye him suspiciously as this must have been one of the shortest ever visits to Mexico! However they do let him back in for the second time in the day.
Our first stop in the USA is Tombstone. Yes the real thing! A small cowboy town with great heritage and history. A evening spent in the Crystal Palace Saloon caps the experience with steaks, ribs and pitchers of beer rounded off with some sipping whiskey at the bar. Welcome to the USA!
And so we are riding across California (another time zone!) towards Los Angeles, or more specifically Hollywood. We have several nights here to allow for the bikes to be flown to Sydney for Section 4 of the trip. The ride in is remarkable. Los Angeles is a total of 420 square miles and the buildings start some 45 miles from our hotel. There is no break in them all the way in. We queue through typical LA traffic, eg stationary, and glimpse he famous Hollywood sign as we ride in. The stationary traffic gives us the chance to chat to local drivers who are fascinated by the group of bikes with foreign plates and by the support vehilce with the steering wheel on the wrong side.
A quick stop at the hotel is followed by a long stop at the Sunset Car Wash where we spend 4 hours cleaning the bikes as the Australians have very strict rules on the import of vehicles. After this we are off to the freight agent, who is super efficient and we ride into the warehouse and literally ride the bikes straight into the crates already lined up for us. As we are stepping off the bikes they are already strapping them down!
And so after the team photo we are waving goodbye to our bikes for a few days as they fly to Australia and section 3 of Discover Our Earth draws to a close. We have crossed Central America, visiting 7 countries along the way. We swam in the Pacific and the Atlantic, and a few hotel pools; visited ruins, answered the challenges of many borders, shopped in markets with the locals, ridden some great (and some terrible) roads, stayed in old monasteries, and even had a day in a cowboy town. Apart from not always being sure what the time was it has been a successful section.
The group now have a few days to explore Hollywood and Los Angeles before the long flight across the date line to Sydney, and section 4. The story continues.....
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Hot and Sticky
04/04/2011
The ride to the Guatemalan border is a little over 6 miles and so we arrive in the cool of the morning. The exit of Honduras is straight forward and so would be the entrance to Guatemala, except for the recently installed computer system. The computer works but nothing will print. If they can’t print the permit for the bike then you can’t get in the country. For the first couple of hours there is no movement. Bikes and Trucks are mounting up and there are now forty to fifty people waiting to get processed. Richard ends up on the wrong side of the counter behind the iron cage trying to fix the problem as they are talking about sending for an engineer! With a bit of luck and patience it gets fixed and the process starts. We lodge one guy at the counter and keep feeding in the documents to ensure we don’t get jostled out of the way. The truck drivers are patient and after another three and a half hours we are in.
The colour and vibrancy of Guatemala cannot be more obvious than in the market at Chichicastanango. It is the largest indigenous market in Central America. The locals are here to trade and exchange and also to sell to the few tourists that make it here. As a group we stand out somewhat as we are slightly taller than the average Guatemalan, who seems to be under 5 feet tall.
The riding in Guatemala is stunning and the mountainous roads are lined with green and beautiful lush scenery which is very memorable. We are only here a short time before we cross to Mexico and the final border crossing before the USA. The Guatemalan side is in the middle of a market and so Guatemala remains colourful, vibrant and bustling to the end. We enter Mexico into the Chiapas region, which only ten years ago was in the middle of a revolution. Our destination, San Cristobal De Las Casas was taken by the Zapatista rebels at one stage of the conflict. San Cristobal is now a bustling town with a strangely large number of good Argentinian Steak Houses. Some of the group take the long stairs to the church overlooking the town, which helps walk off some of the steaks!
After a day riding along the coast we had in land to El Tajin, some of the largest ruins in Central America, originating from the first century and built by the Mayan and Teotihuacan Indians. With 12 “ball” Courts and several pyramids the site is extremely impressive. The stories of the ball courts vary about how the game was played and who played. However the constant theme is that the outcome for the losers seems to have been very bad!
Inland and through the mountains towards to the former hippy hangout of San Miguel Allende. There are still quite a lot of artists, writers and poets around, as well as one of the most stunning and unique churches in Central America. The plaza is not only home to this great church but also to a small bar serving some of the best Margueritas of the trip so far. The town is surprisingly quiet. All becomes clear when we realise that Mexico is playing Venuezala at football and the match is televised. We didn’t let this stop a good night out at a favourite local bar with great local folk music. The band plays wine is drunk and the Mexicans draw the football so its not too bad a night for them either.
On a day off in Zacetecas we have time to do some final preparation for the USA crossing which seems to be the most bureaucratic of the trip so far. We need all sorts of forms and permissions authorised before we take our foreign vehicles in. Zacatecas is another bastion of colonial architecture and also has a Ski lift. Well they call it the Periferico and it goes up to the top of the hill overlooking the town and provides stunning views. Most people spend the day updating bits of maintenance and cleaning on the bikes and enjoying the city. Gunter even walks up the hill just to shame the rest of us.
A big days ride follows as we move north to Parral. A town famous as the location that the USA assassinated Pancho Villa. Allegedly of course. The American riders with us seem certain it wasn’t them, and as we have no Mexican riders we defer to their claims of innocence. And so our timw in Mexico is drawing to a close. We have a few more days before we cross the border and head for Tombstone, Joshua Tree National Park and then Hollywood. Rumour has it the Arnie the Governator will be there to welcome us personally? However its probably just a rumor…. Back to top
Central America, Central to Discover Our Earth
24/03/2011
 The air freight from Bogota to Panama goes relatively smoothly and all the bikes arrive on time in Panama and are swiftly cleared through customs, in less than a day. This leaves Larry’s bike still to arrive as he re joins the group after time at home to allow his broken ankle to heal. His bike arrives a day late but he catches the group by the end of the first days ride. The swift clearance means we have additional free time to make the most of Panama. We take the chance to visit another SOS Children’s Village. The kids love the bikes and a morning is lost giving rides on the bikes around the village. There is also time to visit the Miraflores lock at the entrance to the Panama Canal. Seeing the huge tankers manoeuvring through the locks with only metres to spare is always impressive. For some people the chance to swim in the Atlantic and the Pacific on the same day cannot be missed and a crowd set off for a day out to do just that. And then it is time to get back on the road.
The first day is a straightforward ride along the Pan American. Straight forward for all, except Cathy who collides with a stray dog but skilfully manages to keep it upright. She takes the impact on her ankle leaving her sore and limping for a few days, and her bike needing a new footpeg. The following day we cross to Costa Rica and ride along the Pacific Coast. The cool breeze off the sea reduces the effect of the heat and humidity. However a long hot day is spent at the border for a Kevin as he and two riders hang back and negotiate the day away with the customs officers. One rider had been to Costa Rica years ago but unfortunately the company that sent his bike home did not complete the paperwork correctly and customs think the bike is still in the country. You can’t have two vehicles in the country so they refuse entry for his bike! A potential trip stopper! After a long day of discussion and negotiation a “solution” was agreed. This means the first night in Costa Rica the group are split with some at the planned hotel and some still at the border. However we are all back together again the next evening after a nice dirt road ride into the mountains of the Rincon De La Vieja National Park. Our hotel has natural hot springs and mud baths, which those who arrive early enjoy. It makes a change from the mud baths that resulted from the flooded roads in Argentina just a few weeks ago! It is another border day and we are crossing into Nicaragua. There are over 100 trucks queued on the Pan American waiting to get into the border compound. We slide past them all and begin the lengthy process of crossing with the assistance of our local helper. The process changes all the time but our helper, a smile and being patient get us through pretty quickly. Quicker than the South African Bikers we met who spent an hour and a half in one queue to find they had missed one of the “inspecion” and so had to go back for this and then re join the queue all over again!  The beautiful old colonial town of Granada, on the shores of Lake Nicaragua is our home for a few nights. We are treated to dinner courtesy of Terry and an old family friend Guillermo Perez-Arguello. Gui;;ermo was a formerly a senior advisor to President Ortega and the Chief Nicaraguan Ambassador. We are eating in a restaurant that was once his Great Grandmothers Family home originally built in 1906 and featured in National Geographic Magazine in an article about Nicaragua in the 1950’s. It is an entertaining and interesting evening. Granada has a wild side to it and there are some no go areas, but it is a city not to be missed with the action focussing on the main plaza right outside our hotel. Arriving in Honduras we are riding through the highlands. Stunning sweeping roads with sections of dirt are enjoyed by all the riders of the group. The scenery is lush and green and we are fortunate that the weather is warn and largely dry, with low humidity. Almost perfect riding days. We ride towards Copan and another day off to visit the ancient Mayan ruins. The ruins were discovered in the late 19th century when the whole site was bought for just $50 by an Englishman John Lloyd Stephens. It was reclaimed by the Honduran’s some time later but it is not clear if John Lloyd Stephens ever got his $50 back.  So after a little time off here in Copan we are looking over the hills to Guatemala where we will be in just a few days. From there Mexico is our next country, where after all the smaller countries in Central America we will be for almost two weeks. In Central America we are at the central point of this epic ride, with four months ridden and four months still to go. The core team who set out from Mieming are still together. Some new friends have joined for sections of the ride and are now at home again but the ride rolls on……. |
Pot holes, chickens and the grinning llamas
20/03/2011
The ride from Cusco to Nazca is one of the best in South America. Not only is the scenery  stunning but the riding is amazing. Challenging in places as we weave around pot holes, chickens and the grinning llamas. Then we are blessed with hundreds of bends and with the Peruvians upgrading their roads, the surface improves as we head towards to the small desert town of Nazca. 20 miles from Nazca we are presented with the stunning view of Cerro Blanco, at 2,080m the highest sand dune in the World. The temperature has risen from 5 degrees C on the altiplano to a blistering 30 as we ride along the desert roads into Nazca..The town has developed over the years as the staging post to visit the famous Nazca lines. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1994, it is a collection of ancient geoglyphs varying from simple straight lines to complex patterns and figures including a spider, hummingbird and monkey. The only way to really see the lines is from the air and the group had a day off to take a flight in one of the small planes that circle the area. The advice was to have a small breakfast as the pilots seem to take great pleasure in banking the planes left and right to give everyone a good view. A few of the group returned looking very pale and an afternoon lie down was needed.  The coast of Peru is very different from the riding we had had up until now. It is a lot of desert and straight roads and is also the main run to the capital, Lima. With a population of 9 million and the main Pan Am running straight through, it would be combat motorcycling to get through the traffic. It would make a great training ground for despatch riders, trying to read your notes and look at road signs whilst avoiding the swerving cars and trucks and street sellers. A few riders ended up off route having missed some turns, but we all got through and settled into the ride north.Our destination in northern Peru was the city of Chiclayo. Known as ‘The Capital of Friendship’ this would be our base for visiting one of the best museums in South America. The ‘Lord of Sipan’ is considered to be one of the most important archaeological finds in the last 30 years. The tombs date back 2,000 years and were only discovered in the 80’s fully intact, which also meant they had not been robbed of their riches. A six million dollar museum was built to house the artifacts and is another must see in Peru. Leaving Chiclayo we headed away from the desert to the small border at Macara, Ecuador. It was very hot and we were pleased at how quick the Peruvians exited us and within 5 minutes each we were riding across the bridge to the Ecuadorean customs. They were pleased to see us all and asked many questions about our journey and the motorcycles. It took a bit longer to obtain our vehicle permits as one customs official tapped away on his computer. Only a few years ago all permits were hand written and now most have computerised their systems. This is great progress for the countries but is a little slow until they get to grips with the new process. It also didn’t help with so many different nationalities and vehicle titles.  We were soon winding our way through the mountain roads in Ecuador. Our Garmin gps units were getting closer to showing us all the zeros as we approached the equator. After a stop over in the capital, Quito, we were set to ride into the northern hemisphere. We stopped for pictures on the line and fiddled with our gps units to make sure we were exactly on the equator. With pictures of one pannier in each hemisphere completed we headed to our last country in South America, Colombia. Colombia has done a lot of good work over the last few years to shake off the bad image that has been hanging over them. We were the first tour company to take a group through Colombia in 2009 and now it is on everyones itinery and rightly so. It requires full concentration to negotiate the miles of bends through the central route north to Bogota. The trucks can be a major problem as they crawl their way up and down the mountain roads. This often causes long lines of vehicles backed up behind them and then the leap froging starts as you manoeuvre past the slower cars. Although every few bends someone coming the other way is also doing the same and sometimes it is a truck overtaking another truck!Our first stop was the ‘white city’ of Popayan, with its wonderful colonial architecture and many churches. When we arrived at our hotel there seemed to be a heavy presence of police and soldiers. After checking in we were told that Juan Manuel Santos, the president of Colombia would be staying at the hotel that night. Most of us were excited about this whilst others were worried due to the security! Our bikes were checked by the police and we tried to get a picture with him and the bikes but I think he had other more important issues on his mind. A visit to Colombia would not be complete without staying over night on a coffee plantation. So on route to Bogota we stopped for a night in the coffee growing area of Armenia. With a cold beer in hand and looking out across the many miles of coffee plants and banana trees, it gave us all time to reflect on our achievement and the last two months of riding through South America, section 2 was almost complete.
 A long day awaited us as we landed in Panama City. With all our bikes collected and cleared customs in half a day we are now ready for section 3. Central America will be hot and sticky and a border every few days will test some of the patience of the group. The original team is also back together as Larry re joins us. Los Angeles is 5,000 miles away and we have 5 countries to cross before entering the US. New countries and new roads await us as we continue to Discover our Earth and section 3 begins. |
Wet and Wild
17/02/2011
 The rest in Santiago did us all good after some testing times in Patagonia. We ride out to head back into Argentina and across the Andes once again. This is the 7th time we have crossed the Chile / Argentina border as our route winds its way up the spine of the Andes. Among many dramatic hairpin filled roads we ride the road to the border is one of the most extreme. On the GPS screen it almost looks faked but I can assure you that the road is exactly as mapped.  Just two days out of Santiago we are confronted by torrents and rivers crossing the roads. The roads are designed with hollows periodically to allow excess surface water to drain. In all the years I have ridden these roads I have never seen them like they are now. Chocolate brown water a metre deep is gushing across the road at considerable speed. The current is strong and the surface underneath is un predictable as the concrete is suffering from the effects of the water and debris carried with it. Getting the bikes across is a timely process and the safest way is to walk them across on the throttle with riders each side to support them if they are caught in the current or by an un-expected rock in the bottom. By the time we are all across we are all soaked. Cathy is almost swept under as she loses her footing and staggered to regain her balance in the current. But all is well even if our kit is going to be damp for a few days!    We ride on through the Andes and soon arrive in our third country for South America. Bolivia. It is a poor and basic country but does boast the highest capital in the world – La Paz. With its heritage in mining visits down the mines are a must for many, and some who shall remain nameless are tempted to spend a few dollars for a stick of dynamite, available for throwing and blowing stuff up with!  After surviving the ‘road of death’ the group was set to leave the witches markets and craziness of the traffic of La Paz and head towards Lake Titicaca and Peru. It was a cloudy morning but dry as we set of towards the shores of the highest navigable lake in the World. We arrived at the small town of San Pablo de Tiquina and some of the riders looked a bit shocked and nervous at the prospect of backing their bikes onto what looked like a home wooden raft powered by a small outboard motor. The young lads controlling the ‘ferries’ told us only 4 bikes to one and we had to balance the bikes evenly to keep them stable on the water. To help with one they also loaded a large bull! The owner warned the riders not to get too near, and unsurprisingly every-one kept their distance.All bikes crossed safely and a look of relief was on most faces as the bikes road back onto land. It was a short ride up to the Bolivian/Peruvian border. It was a quick exit from Bolivia with no fuss. We then road under the arches to the Peruvian side. This was a little slower as the printer for our bike permits kicked into life. The final check was the police and requests for a coffee indicated a ‘fee’ would be appreciated. I changed the subject and talked about football. After a few exchanges of Manchester United verses Chelsea we were on our way into the land of the Incas.  Our first stop in Peru was Puno on the coast of Lake Titicaca and our staging post for a visit out to the floating reed islands. At 9am the next day our boat headed out into the lake. The Uros people who live on the lake, fish, hunt birds and live of the lake plants. The totora reeds are most important and they use these for their boats, houses and the foundations of the islands. That evening most of the group headed into Puno and a table had been booked at a nice local restaurant to sample the local delicacy of ‘cuy’ or guinea pig. Served up with head and pointy teeth, the group tucked in. I don’t know if we will be ordering them again but it made a good picture and a story for nieces back home and yes, it tastes a bit like chicken. Leaving Puno we road across the high altiplano with Cusco as our destination. Cusco was the ancient Inca capital meaning ‘navel of the earth’. Today it is a fascinating mix of Inca and colonial Spanish architecture and a major tourist centre on the gringo trail.  As well as having a few beers in the famous biker bar The Nortan Rats, we would be visiting one of the mostWith a couple more nights to explore the splendours of Cusco the group are in good spirits and the bikes are running great at these high altitudes, which is more than we can say about some of the riders. Once we leave here we will be heading west and down to Nazca. Sea level air and warm temperatures await us as we continue to Discover our Earth. |
Go (North) West Young Man
01/02/2011
From Ushuaia unless you are swimming or sailing there is only one way to go and so we head north and west to the spine of the Andes. But the strikes and protests in Chile are still in full swing in the Punto Arenas region and there are tales of kidnappings on the road. So we divert and take a swing around the planned southern route to avoid any potential trouble. More re routing and planning back at base. This is where having Julia and the team back at home is invaluable. We take a day off to see the Perrito Moreno Glacier, the scale of which never fails to impress. After the dramas of the southern ride this section seems to run more smoothly. The new riders who have joined us in Buenos Aires have been welcomed into the group although those who left us after the first section in Africa are still missed.The wildlife viewings are of course a highlight, with Penguins, Guanaco, Sheep (of course) and a host of other indigenous animals. The fresh lamb on the parilla is also a sight to behold in the wilds of Patagonia.  But there is more Patagonia drama in store.The weather is clear and bright in the south and the views and scenery are incredible.The roads are clear and the gravel surfaces are largely great riding.But never underestimate these roads.One of the riders who has joined in Buenos Aires goes down on the loose surface and although apparently largely OK develops back pain that prevents him continuing with his ride.As we ride north to San Carlos de Bariloche (Chocolate Town!) the rider who’s bike who has been repaired back in Buenos Aires rejoins us having ridden west across Argentina to catch up the group. Riding in Patagonia is always tough but this time it has been tougher than previously.  The ride takes us to Santiago for the second service stop of the trip as we have covered almost 6,000 miles since Buenos Aires. Our ride into the city is escorted by the Carabinieri. Riding into town with a flashing blue light escort through red traffic lights is a very special experience. Time for a few days off the bike to explore the city and for a wine tasting at the local vineyard. From Santiago we are heading north and the weather and roads have more surprises in store… |
Happy Christmas and a Dakar New Year
22/01/2011
 After some delays leaving Europe due to the Christmas Snow all the bikes arrived safely in Buenos Aires. But before they did we had the small issue of Christmas to celebrate. Christmas in 30 degrees and sunshine was a change for most of the group more used to European Winters. Christmas Eve was spent at a Tango show seeing Christmas day in with excellent dance and great company. Secret Santa and a few riders wives came to visit and a good time was had by all. Santa looked suspiciously like Reinhard, or is it that Reinhard looks suspiciously like Santa?  Steaks were the order of most of the days along with Argentine wine. We were joined by Dakar Legend Simon Pavey and a host of other riders and crew for dinner on a couple of occasions as they prepped for the rally.The bikes arrived between Christmas and New Year and were whisked into Trepat BMW Motorrad for their services. Charley and the team were brilliant and turned them all round in no time. Little did they know one would be back with them before long. New Year on the harbour front with fireworks and more steaks was a night many will remember. We had deliberately selected a hotel overlooking the 9 de Julio (widest road in the world according to some) so we could watch the start of the Dakar Rally. The bikes, Quads, Buggies, Cars and Trucks all leave from right in front of our hotel for their 15 days of trial and endurance at altitude in the mountains, across desert and over miles of hostile terrain. It was a magic way to spend New Years Day.   And then we are off and after days of glorious weather in Buenos Aires it is windy and raining as we leave to head south to Ushuaia, and the most southerly road in the world. The ride down should be largely uneventful. The east coast route is tarmac Ruta 3 nearly all the way. Coming back up from Ushuaia on the gravel of Carreterra Austral and Ruta 40 should be the challenge, nut not this time. Always windy on the east side, it is worse than we have ever ridden before. Combined with lashing rain and slippery tarmac it our route south  becomes our own rally stage. Four drops in one day. Two relatively minor and two more serious. One rider clips the back of an overtaking on coming truck which does not get back in soon enough and his bike cartwheels off the road, fortunately throwing him clear. His bike is severely damaged although he is walking wounded with just bruises and bumps. Where as larry loses his footing at almost walking pace on the greasy surface and his bike goes down. His bike is fine but his ankle is broken! Both bikes are trucked back up to the capital to see what can be done. Larry flies home to recuperate in plaster but he plans to rejoin the group in Panama. Well he needs to as Cathy his wife has gone on ith the ride on her bike! Back at Trepat Motorrad major bike surgery is underway with the dealer basically stripping one of their own used bikes to pieces to get the rider back on the road – VERY expensive but when you are determined to carry on it is a price you have to pay. The group ride on cautiously heading for Ushuaia, only to find one day from Tierra Del Fuego that there is a national strike in Chile and the border is closed for the day! Back to last night’s hotel and skype back to the office to get the route and accommodation re-scheduled as well as checking the latest news and FCO advise on the Chile situation. All should be calm tomorrow where we are and it is and the border is open. Finally a day late we make it to Tierra Del Fuego and onto Ushuaia and the sign at “Fin Del Mundo” The end of the world. We always celebrate here, and even though the ride was only a week we feel we have earned it. On Tierra Del Fuego we swap to full knobbly tyres that we arranged to be here months ago, ready for the gravel roads and challenges ahead to Santiago. During our trip preparation we always try to explain that overland travel is not a holiday, its an adventure and in the last seven days the group have certainly found that to be true.    |
Mutton, Mountains and Mayhem
29/12/2010
We arrive back in the desert at Merzouga with the mammoth sand dunes overlooking our Riad. We are off the beaten track and a little way off the road with a couple of miles of sand track to get to our home for the night. All the riders negotiate this well except for Roger, who decides not to follow the route notes and the other riders but to follow his GPS. He arrives on foot. “I’m stuck” he says and so, hesitating only to collect the video camera, we go off to help. He has managed to get within 100 metres of the Riad via a side track before getting bogged down in the soft sand. A little expert help from Kevin and we have managed to get his back wheel properly buried in 9 inches of sand. It makes a great picture and the bike is so deep in he can get off it and walk away without the bother of putting the stand down.
After getting him out of the sand and into the Riad we have dinner in the dunes. A short walk from the Riad takes us out to a small encampment where a sheep is being cooked in a traditional Berber kiln. A great meal ensues as well as a camp fire sing along (only if you know traditional Berber songs though) and an opportunity for some star gazing. The sky was full and at least a dozen shooting starts arc across the sky for our entertainment. When the Berber musicians have had enough they insist we sing something. Between the Brit, Austrian, German and American present the only thing we all the knew the words to is Janis Joplin – “Oh Lord won’t you buy me a Mercedes Benz” Ironic as we are nearly all on BMW’s!
The road through the Rif mountains looked great on the map and when ridden previously was a beautiful and enjoyable ride. However previously it had not been in the process of being prepared for resurfacing. The temporary surface varied from great tarmac to dusty, muddy, gravelly and everything else you can think off. As the weatherman might say it was “changeable” In total we had four drops and a car park faux pas. Two on the lightly gravelled top surface and two on a stretch of road liberally coated with diesel. The prevailing breeze was going the wrong way and so there was no warning odour for the diesel, it was just there and we were on it. Suffice to say all bikes and riders were fine, with nothing more than dented panniers and bruised egos. They were all quickly back in the saddle and looking for more adventure, which is great as there is the promise of more to come.
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Lots of handshakes and hugs follow as each group of riders makes it in to the Hotel to be welcomed by Julia who is joining the group over Christmas in Buenos Aires. The following day the bike’s are loaded into two trucks for the run to Madrid from where they are being flown to Buenos Aires over Christmas to be re-united with their owners for Section 2.
So Section 1 is done. Sadly we lose three riders who are making their way home from here and all three will be missed. In Buenos Aires some new members join the team. Section 2 takes the team from Buenos Aires south to Ushuaia and the most southerly road in the world before coming north through the Andes up to Peru, Bolivia, Ecuador and into Colombia in March. Read on - the adventure has only just begun……..
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Straight for the Mountains
18/12/2010
We retrace our steps for a couple of days back north from Dakhla through the desert but stopping at some new and interesting destinations. Laayoune is the centre point of the dispute regarding the status of Western Sahara with camps outside the town of Saharan's bent in their independence from Morocco. Only 10 days ago the BBC was reporting rioting and cars burning in the streets here, but all is calm as we ride into town, The hotel is another one used by the UN to house their staff and so we do no not need to pay for a guardian to watch the bikes overnight as right outside is an armed Policeman or two.
After Laayoune we stop at a special little Riad on the coast where we can fish for our supper from the beach. For some the opportunity to swim out into the huge surf is too tempting. It is a bit like being in a cross between a fight and a massage as the surf tosses you which ever way it chooses and pounds your muscles, leaving you feeling a bit bruised and battered but ultimately refreshed. However all return safely for a great fish supper overlooking the beach. The last day north bound in this desert takes us to another remote and peaceful Riad and then we are straight back to the mountains
You cannot visit this region of Morocco without going to the UNESCO World Heritage site of Ait Ben Haddou. Recognizable to many from films such as Gladiator and Jesus of Nazareth it is one of the best preserved Ksars (a medieval fortified city) anywhere. We have an afternoon to explore but only after riding the Tiz N Ticha pass and a small back road route to get there. The back road was being worked on and for 30 miles we have fresh laid gravel being watered and graded. It makes for some challenging sections and we have a couple of minor spills in the group but all survive. For those continuing to Patagonia where Ruta 40 and Carreterra Austral await us this is good practice Where there is 30 miles here there are almost 1000 more awaiting us.
The twists and turns lead us to the Dades and Todra Gorges. The two beautiful and dramatic valleys are separated by 40 miles. However on the map there is a track that heads north from Dades to Agundal and then back down the Todra. Kevin has had it in mind if the weather is good to try the route and with the sun shining almost all the group decide to go along. What follows is a fantastic, full and challenging days ride. The Dades is paved to mile 20 and beyond this is rock, gravel, sand and mud for the next 35. It is remote and beautiful. Yet still along the “road” are scattered the odd shepherd with his flock and a small village or two. The ride claims only one faller and that was due to a suicidal dog who desperately wanted to see the underside of a V Strom. Fortunately both rider and dog survive. We arrive back at our hotel late in the day with just enough time for a celebratory drink and a late dinner. This turns out to be the best Tajine of the trip. Or is this just because we had all worked hard and were hungry? Seconds please!
We have a brief return to the desert ahead of us and the promise of an evening in the dunes, and a traditional Berber meal. However that is still ahead as we have only a week left of section 1 of Discover Our Earth before we freight the bikes to Buenos Aires ready for South America in the new year. Back to top
Fish in the Desert
10/12/2010
The road from Marrakesh (isn't that a song title?) leads us to the coast and Essouria. Formerly a Spanish fortress town the old Medina is set back from the sea defenses of walls turrets and cannons. It forms an interesting mix. With the Medina more compact that than of Marrakesh and seemingly calmer due to the lack of scooters, the whole place feels more relaxed and laid back. This is probably added to by the surfers who flock here for the Atlantic surf.
From here we cross into the Sahara proper and the desert landscape of scrub and rocky rolling dunes or hamada is on either side of the road. We are heading to Boujdour. It sounds quaint and French but isn't either. It is proper small town Western Sahara with no concessions to Tourists. There is one restaurant with a Pizza sign over it but this has closed down a while ago. The town appears to be dry although the local urchin Mohammed will get you anything. Hash? Women? Drink? Nothing is beyond this 14 year old who makes it his business to see to out every need. Copies of documents – Mohammed gets them; Bags to carry – Mohammed carries. He earns well from the group and Larry suggests if we come back in a few years Mohammed is likely to be Mayor. I think he is probably right!
Boujdour affords us minor celebrity status as we are the only tourists in town and the bikes are a fascination for all the young kids.
Another day heading south across the desert follows as our final destination is Dakhla. Dakhla is a tourist town (it thinks) on a peninsula The day involves many police checkpoints and army stops to check our documents. All are friendly but we are fascinated by how important it seems to be for them all to know our profession? However all the Police and Army are very courteous and helpful. There is a small issue of not stopping at the Stop sign which costs a fine of 700 Dhm but even this was dealt with in a nice, if costly, manner.
The ride through the desert is marked by two things. The first is the police and army checkpoints that all ask for Fishes. Fishes in the desert? Yes - What they are asking for is a copy of our passports and vehicle documents - “Fiches” Having them ready saves a lot of time at each of the stops. The other is the smell. Every few miles there is a terrible stink of rotting fish. Fish in the Desert? Yes again – There is a big fishing industry in Dakhla and they load the trucks up in Dakhla to drive north a loaded with fish packed in ice. The ice melts as they drive in the desert heat and so the trucks stop at the side of the road and open a valve on the back of the truck and empty the now melted ice and fish blood on the side of the road. It turns the sand black and it stinks!
Dakhla is a military town with Moroccan troops and bases all over town. In the harbour there are a pair of Moroccan Frigates which forms half of the entire Moroccan Navy! The UN are staying in the hotel we are using, as they are here to keep the peace between the Moroccans who claim Western Sahara as their own and the Saharan's who claim independence. However all is calm here at present, so lets hope it stays that way for another 36 hours...... Back to top
Enjoyable but slightly Fawlty Towers experience...
02/12/2010
As we roll into Marrakesh it is the first time it has stopped raining for three days. This is not what we had expected for Morocco especially after being so lucky in Europe.
Ten days ago we had sprinted out of Austria and into Switzerland sticking to main roads and low altitudes chased by a cold front and snow that hovered a day behind us. From Switzerland we ride for Arles in France close to the Mediterranean and better weather. Three countries in three days. We take the chance in Arles to visit the Roman Amphitheatre. One of the most complete and impressive surviving in the world. Day four brings country four as we cross the Col D'Ares at 1500m into Spain. Another 200m above us lies the snow. We descend to Barcelona and our first rest day, with an opportunity to visit the Gaudi and wander the streets rubbing shoulders with the ultra fashionable of Spain. The rest day is dry and clear and we begin to believe we have cheated the weather.
In land to Teruel and while it remains dry for us we are shocked to be riding away from Teruel with the bikes showing -5.5C. The temperatures stay below freezing for the first three hours of the day. Today we cross the Meridian going officially from East to West. In March next year the group will cross the equator in Ecuador and later in April cross the date line flying to Australia for Section 5. These are landmarks as we circumnavigae the globe.
The following day presents the first big challenge of the trip. Roads and towns are flooding as the dry earth of Morocco cannot cope with now 48 hours of torrential rain. Our route takes us up into the mountains and includes dirt roads and at least one Oued – River to cross. When the route was ridden for research the weather was very different and the dry river beds presented no challenge. However what they will be like now we won't know until we get there. As we get out onto the roads the wind is howling and the rain is pouring down and sideways and sometimes up as well. Some riders decide with only 8 days done and 240 to go that caution is the better part of valor and stick to a more main road route. However even then they are confronted with a washed out bridge and closed road.
The riders who have stuck to the route find the mountain roads are, if anything, in a better state than the main roads down in the valleys, that is at least until they reach the Oued. There are two options to cross – One looks like a class 5 rapid and a canny local in an ancient truck waits to see if we are stupid enough to try it. When we don't he turns back. Ten miles further down the now muddy and slithery road we reach another chance to cross and this is more achievable. The water is only two feet deep but the current is very strong and the surface underneath unstable. Kevin crosses having walked it first and then the riders brave it one by one with Richard standing knee deep in the current to guide them. Each makes it safely across with no drops. Neither the local in the truck or even our own 4x4 support vehicle chance it and both go back the long way to the main road in a 70 mile detour.
The rest of the day is spent winding on mountain roads to Cascades d'Ozoud and a remote and simple Riad. An evening spent beside a roaring fire in true Moroccan surroundings makes every-one forget they were ever wet. The next day we visit a SOS Children's Village outside Marrakesh The work SOS do throughout the world for under privileged children is fantastic. A percentage of the cost for each rider on Discover Our Earth has been donated to SOS and so it is great to go and see the work they are doing. For Kevin it is also a reminder of previous visits to SOS villages as it was his and Julia's chosen charity on the Guinness Trans Americas ride.
And so here we are in Marrakesh and the sun is shining! Hurrah! A day off here will not be enough to explore this fascinating and complex city but a day is all we have. Form here we keep heading south and into the desert. Back to top
1 Day – Two Countries, We’re rolling
22/11/2010
It’s very cold and frosty as we wake on the first day of Discover Our Earth. The final briefing meeting yesterday went well and every-one seems ready to go. Breakfast is subdued as the group appears excited and nervous that the moment to depart has finally come.
The first ride is a short jaunt to Mieming Town Hall for the official send off. A grand affair with National Anthems played for each group of riders as well as speeches from the Chairman of SOS Children Villages and the Mayor of Mieming, who official starts the Expedition with wave of an Austrian Flag.
We have an invite today from “The Swiss Peters” to come for lunch. Peter and Peter are both riding on Discover our Earth – One on Sections 2,3,4 and 5 and one on Section 5. Their hospitality is fantastic as they open up one of their homes for us and are descended on by the whole group. Lunch is Goulash and Salad followed by home made Hungarian deserts. It is a very welcome warming feast.
The ride ends overlooking the lake of Bierlesee in Switzerland. A small friendly family hotel with a good fish restaurant. Day 1 is done, every-one is in, all the bikes made it and everyone is smilling. Day 1 – success – Now for Day 2……
View more picture from the start here.
Pictures by Alexander Segar.
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Pre Departure
19/11/2010
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We set off from GlobeBusters HQ in Wales in freezing temperatures and with ice on the saddle. The first stop in this epic 8 month circumnavigation of the world is at our Freight Agent, James Cargo in Heathrow. There we drop the second support vehicle and two GlobeBuster BMW GS's to be sea freighted to Buenos Aires ready for Section 2. They join three other bikes already collected from clients in Europe who are joining the ride in Argentina in the New Year.
From there our little convoy of the Support Vehicle and two bikes wend our way to the Channel Tunnel and across to France for the first night away for the Support Crew. Two days across Europe sees us arrive in a snowy, frosty and cold Austria. It is beautiful with the mountains and fir trees dusted with snow and the clouds wandering down the valleys heading no where in particular. All we need is for fresh snow to hold off until after the 21st so we can head south to the warmer coast of the Mediterranean. We have a few days here to relax, put the finishing touches to a few little items and welcome the riders and bikes as they arrive, before the off on Sunday morning and the first days ride to Switzerland.
We hope you will ride along with us on this journey...
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